We look at the principles behind the methodology and why corneotherapy is on the rise in beauty!
A few years ago, if you mentioned ‘skin barrier’ to most people they wouldn’t have a clue what you were talking about. Now it’s commonplace for brands and experts to use the term and consumers to realise that everything and anything - from skincare ingredients to the environment to hormones - can impact the health of it. “A decade ago, clients (and many therapists) hadn’t heard of the ‘skin barrier’, let alone understand what it means. Now, everyone on social media is talking about it and clients come in knowing how important it is,” says facialist and skin health expert, Andy Millward.
It's also no secret that the skin barrier is under attack more than ever before. “The continual flooding of the skincare market with ingredients like vitamin A and acid-based formulations that aren’t being used correctly means I’m so often supporting clients with impaired skin barriers because their regime has simply been stripping the skin of its natural defence systems,” explains Lauren Leale-Green, founder of Lauren Leale-Green Skin + Laser Clinic. “Treatments that aggressively desquamate the skin such as intensive forms of exfoliation to reduce the build-up of dead skin cells on the upper epidermis can also lead to TEWL (trans-epidermal water loss), opening the pathways leading to skin irritation.”
Which is where corneotherapy comes to the rescue. “Its principles encourage therapists to look at the skin in terms of ‘repairing, replenishing and regenerating’ and the training delves deeper into the functions and physiology of the skin,” continues Lauren.
How Corneotherapy Works
Rachel Robertson Founder and Formulator of Prologic Skincare says, “This physiologically compatible approach to the use of dermatological cosmetics means that there will be a conspicuous absence of conventional non-physiologically compatible ingredients in formulations. This includes active agent cocktails, (artificial peptides etc) surface-active substances that cause skin barrier disorders, skin barrier incompatible emulsifiers, preservatives with allergenic potential, perfumes and colourings. Any treatments that have an ablative action or interfere with the barrier of the skin would not be considered corneotherapeutic.”
“For those wishing to practice corneotherapy, it is important to up skill your knowledge of skin science,” says Lynne Siwoku Dicks, UK Distributor and Trainer of Prologic Skincare. “It involves a much deeper level of understanding about how the skin functions at a cellular level, as well as how internal and external factors can affect the skin on a daily basis.”
Andy Millward is in agreement: “It studies the physiological, biological and biochemical processes of the stratum corneum. As skin therapists we were originally taught that the corneocytes were ‘dead’ cells because they lost their nucleus and transitioned from a young ‘keratinocyte’ to a mature ‘corneocyte’ but the problem with this is ‘dead’ implies unimportant. However what corneotherapy teaches us is that the corneocyte is far from biologically inert and actually plays a very important role in protection (both chemical and physical), as well as communication and regulation of other cellular functions with this skin.”
Which goes a long way in explaining why today’s obsession with exfoliating away the dead skin cells to reveal new, glowy skin underneath could be doing more harm than good for some people. If the barrier function is compromised or disrupted, it could cause accelerated aging as well as exasperate inflammatory skin conditions such as acne, eczema and rosacea.
Treatment Do’s And Don’t’s
You’ve probably worked out by now that for those with a vulnerable skin barrier, there are certain treatments that are a no-go and that wouldn’t be considered corneotherapeutic. Chemical peels, microdermabrasion, ablative lasers, alkaline washes all compromise the skin barrier leaving it open to further damage.
Instead, corneotherapists would suggest products and treatments that work holistically with the skin’s natural functions. Micro-needling, microcurrent, LED and light therapy all preserve the integrity of the stratum corneum and provide the right environment for skin to heal and thrive.
The same considerations should be taken into account when using or recommending products too. “It’s a gentle ecosystem that needs to remain balanced so corneotherapists prefer to work with product ranges that are biomimetic, meaning they are recognised by the skin,” says Lynne.
Who it’s Good For
Anyone and everyone! The environment, hormones and diet can all affect the skin’s barrier function and its microbiome and that’s before any products have been applied. As we age, the risk for damage heightens too, so by caring for the skin in a gentle, tailored and well thought out manner, it brings the skin back to a healthy balance. It’s also ideal for those who are especially sensitive to irritation and allergies.
As for how long it takes to see results, it will vary for all clients as it depends on how compromised the skin barrier was in the first place, but as a rough guide, between one and two months should be enough time to notice an improvement. Just make sure your clients know that this isn’t a quick-fix, instant results approach which so many people crave nowadays. “When the skin has issues it’s trying to tell us something but treating the symptoms alone will not resolve these issues. Corneotherapists therefore look for the reasons why and by taking a functional approach we can help rebalance our clients’ health and wellbeing which will benefit their overall skin health,” says Lynne.
Education for Everyone
Educating your clients about the risks of over exfoliation and using too many active products or treatments needs to be part of your consultation and aftercare process. Recommending routines that support their skin barrier is crucial too as it gives them the opportunity to maintain a healthy complexion.
For therapists, upskilling in corneotherapy is always going to be a bonus as the deeper understanding you have of the skin, the better you’ll be able to treat your clients. You can go to corneotherapy.org to take an introductory course.
With wellness and holistic approaches becoming increasingly popular, the microbiome quite literally under the microscope and a realisation of what over exfoliation and an overdose of actives can do to the skin barrier, there really couldn’t be a better time to take on a more corneotherapeutic approach.
Words:Becci Vallis